Route from 3 oldies and a piper

Cape Wrath Trail, 2007

This is the record of the route walked by 3 old men and a support car, roughly following a previously described CWT route suitable for vehicular support. We planned our route on Memory Map using walking times based on 2.5mph + half hour for every 1000ft climbed which was OK, but no time was allowed for stops (lunch, river crossing, photos, map reading) etc.  We started walking on May 1st 2007.

 

Day Zero, travelled to Fort William, stayed at The Wild Goose Hostel, Banavie.  Excellent accommodation.

 

Day 1, Fort William to Tomdoun (20 miles).  A lovely walk along the Caledonian canal to Achnacarry and up to Fedden Ruin in 30 degrees heat.  Then yomped down to Glengarry Forest (hard going as the track shown east of Fedden Ruin does not exist) to Tomdoun and stayed at Hotel.  (Lovely hot baths)

 

Day 2, Tomdoun – Cluanie (8 miles).  Lovely walk, again shirt sleeve weather, through wild country starting up a track 3 miles west of Tomdoun Hotel, up and over Mam na Seilg in Glenquoich forest (indistinct track at times), waded across river at head of Loch Loyne, then over the top on a good track to Cluanie Inn.  Stayed in bunkhouse at Kintail Lodge Hotel, Shiel Bridge.  Very good.

 

Day 3, Killilan – Maol Bhuidhe (Loch Croushie) (11.5miles).  Started walking on a lovely hot day at Killilan and up into Glen Elchaig (carrying camping equipment) where we had arguments with a Highland Cow. Two of us ended up with severly sprained ankles and one with a very bruised chest from the cow’s horns; both after being shunted backwards down a steep bank. This incident hampered progress for the rest of the trip – we were just not in top form after this.  However we were able to continue to the Bothy at Maol Bhuidhe that night where we collapsed!  Wild camped in this wonderful remote place.

 

Day 4, Maol-Bhuidhe – Attadale (11.5miles).  Started early, wondered how the walking wounded would make it down the hill.  We yomped across to Loch Calavie which was easier than expected (but no paths) and onwards down to Bendronaig Lodge.  Then instead of heading North through Bealach Bearneas towards Craig, decided to walk west to Attadale for a safe escape from the hills.  After a medical check found nothing seriously wrong with the walking wounded, drove to Craig – Jerry’s Hostel.  Excellent accommodation, lovely wood fire and friendly atmosphere and again collapsed!

 

Day 5, Achnaschellach station – Torridon (10 miles).  North from the station, into Coire Lair under Bein Liath Mhor on a good track which continued to Torridon.  Poor views due to low cloud.  Poor communication caused confusion over booking at the YHA, so diverted to B&B with Tom and Liz Forrest at Cromasaig in Kinlochewe, our best accommodation of the trip.  Tom’s detailed local knowledge and Liz’s cooking set us up for the wild country to come.

 

Day 6, rest day!  Visited botanical gardens at Poolewe in the pouring rain!

Maol Buidhe Bothy Lochan Fada Suilven Arkle

 

Day 7, Kinlochewe to Corrie Hallie (Dundonnel) (18 miles).  Piped off down the road at 8am to Kinlochewe, turned northwest and walked up Gleann Bianasdail to Lochan Fada along a lovely interesting path.  Crossed the river near the outlet, and continued up to Bealach na Croise and northwards down a good track (not marked on the map but recommended by Tom) to Loch an Nid.  Then along Abhiann Loch an Nid in the valley on a poor track.  After a difficult river crossing (heavy rain) 1km SW of Achneigie, headed up the Landrover track to Corrie Hallie and our pickup.  Night at Sail Mhor Croft Hostel in Dundonnel.  Excellent new accommodation.

 

Day 8, Corrie Hallie – Loch Broom (5 miles).  A short day after the previous, but more arduous than we anticipated.  Followed path from Corrie Hallie to Inverbroom Lodge.  Good track to start, but difficult near the end due to fallen trees.  Night Ullapool YHA.

 

Day 9, Elphin – Lochinver (12 miles).  Decided that bog trotting to Oykel Bridge was for younger travelers, so enjoyed a lovely walk down between Suilven and Canisp to Lochinver.  Very wet to start (route finding could be difficult in the mist at the Elphin end of the track).  Then a very good track onwards from Loch Fada. Pickup and night at Inchnadamph Field Centre (next 3 nights).  Excellent accommodation and facilities.

 

Day 10, Kylesku – Achfarry (6.5 miles).  Had planned to take in Quineag, but the mist was down, not conducive to old men climbing mountains.  So walked from Kylesku to Achfarry along a good track, but very hard underfoot (big loose stones).  Night Inchnadamph again.

 

Day 11, Achfarry – Richonich (14.5 miles).  Up the valley Allt Horn to Bealach Horn with spectacular views of the bare rock and scree of Arkle.  Then past stunning scenery around An Dubah Loch with Lochan Ulbha appeared as an ‘infinity’ pool. The path disappeared at the base of Allt as Eassain Ghill and along Loch Dionard so had to make our own way through the peat hags. Then we picked up the excellent (if long) track along Strath Dionard to Gualin House near Richonich for pickup and back to Inchnadamph.

 

Day 12, Sandwood Bay to Cape Wrath (11.5 miles).  We actually walked this section backwards to avoid problems with the ferry schedule at Durness.  At the lighthouse the cliffs looked spectacular in wonderful clear sunshine, with distant views to Lewis.  We could see Am Buachaille from the beginning and it didn’t seem too far to Sandwood in the clear air.  However there were no paths at all so we headed south on a compass bearing through wet grass and rivers.  Arriving at Sandwood over the cliffs provided stunning views of the beach and dunes.  Met our friends and sauntered back to the car at Blairmore to finish a wonderful fortnights walking.  Night at Kinlochbervie hotel – excellent baths and great food.

The beginning of the end, Cape Wrath Lighthouse.

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